Sayart.net - Moon Jin Woo’s “Nampo-dong Blues” Captures the Shifting Soul of Busan’s Historic Heart

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Moon Jin Woo’s “Nampo-dong Blues” Captures the Shifting Soul of Busan’s Historic Heart

Maria Kim / Published February 21, 2025 12:41 AM
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1987 Gijang, Moon Jin Woo, Photography, Courtesy of the SPACE22

Moon Jin Woo’s latest exhibition, Nampo-dong Blues, set to run from March 19 to April 3 at SPACE22 in Seoul, offers an intimate yet sweeping exploration of Busan’s evolving urban identity. Through the lens of his camera, Moon chronicles the layered history of Nampo-dong, a district that has long stood as the cultural and social epicenter of Busan. This exhibition revisits the spaces, stories, and streets that have shaped both the city and the artist himself.

Nampo-dong, often likened to Seoul’s Myeong-dong or Insa-dong, serves as a symbolic core of Busan. Its influence extends beyond its borders, merging with nearby neighborhoods like Gwangbok-dong, Jungang-dong, Changseon-dong, and Donggwang-dong, creating a seamless urban network. Historically, Nampo-dong has been a significant hub, especially during the Japanese colonial era and the Korean War, when it became the administrative, economic, and cultural center of Busan. The post-war influx of refugees transformed areas like Gukje Market into bustling centers of commerce and survival.


1993 Nampodong, Moon Jin Woo, Photography, Courtesy of the SPACE22

Yet, even in the chaos of war, Nampo-dong fostered a vibrant cultural scene. Refugee artists gravitated to its streets, igniting a wave of creative energy that defined Busan’s post-war artistic identity. Cafés, serving as informal salons and studios, became gathering spots for writers, painters, and thinkers. The iconic café Mildawon, immortalized in Kim Dong-ri’s novel The Mildawon Era, was a cornerstone of this cultural renaissance.

The artistic spirit of Nampo-dong evolved through the decades. By the 1980s, the area embraced what locals call the “Yangsan Park era,” where teahouses, traditional taverns, music lounges, and galleries defined the urban experience. In an era where formal exhibition spaces were rare, cafés doubled as art venues, hosting numerous exhibitions—including Moon Jin Woo’s graduation show. Simultaneously, Nampo-dong became synonymous with cinema, housing many of Busan’s iconic theaters and serving as the birthplace of the now internationally acclaimed Busan International Film Festival (BIFF).

For Moon Jin Woo, Nampo-dong was not just a subject but a personal haven. During his university years, the district became his playground, a place of friendships, first dates, and youthful adventures. He recalls moments of laughter in small teahouses, nights spent in beer halls, and formative experiences that shaped both his personal and artistic life. The now-vanished Mihwadang Department Store, alleys behind it like the Gogalbi Alley, and what is now BIFF Square were all backdrops to his youth.


1985 Nampodong 03, Moon Jin Woo, Photography, Courtesy of the SPACE22

After university, Moon’s direct ties to Nampo-dong waned, but the district’s magnetic pull persisted. He often visited the studio of a fellow artist, now internationally recognized and known simply as K, whose workspace near Gwangbok-dong became a creative sanctuary. It was during these years that Moon’s photography shifted focus—from rural landscapes to urban streetscapes—turning his lens toward the people, shopfronts, and cultural quirks of Busan.

His early urban explorations culminated in his first solo exhibition, The Era of Insensibility (1993), followed by Mannequin (1996). Both works reflected Moon’s contemplation of materialism’s dominance over the human spirit, a theme from his observations of Korea’s rapid economic transformation. Central to these reflections was Nampo-dong, a space that, for Moon, represented both the heart of Busan and the complex interplay between tradition and modernization.


1985 Nampodong 01, Moon Jin Woo, Photography, Courtesy of the SPACE22

Nampo-dong Blues, the namesake of his current exhibition, marked a pivotal moment in Moon’s career, anchoring his long-standing commitment to documenting Busan’s urban shifts. Today, his work focuses on recording the city’s evolving landscapes, capturing the tension between permanence and change.

Through Nampo-dong Blues, Moon Jin Woo invites viewers into a dialogue about memory, place, and identity. His photographs are not merely records of architectural shifts or bustling markets; they are meditations on how cities hold collective memories, even as they reshape themselves. For Moon, Nampo-dong remains more than a district—it is a living, breathing archive of Busan’s soul.


Sayart / Maria Kim, sayart2022@gmail.com

1987 Gijang, Moon Jin Woo, Photography, Courtesy of the SPACE22

Moon Jin Woo’s latest exhibition, Nampo-dong Blues, set to run from March 19 to April 3 at SPACE22 in Seoul, offers an intimate yet sweeping exploration of Busan’s evolving urban identity. Through the lens of his camera, Moon chronicles the layered history of Nampo-dong, a district that has long stood as the cultural and social epicenter of Busan. This exhibition revisits the spaces, stories, and streets that have shaped both the city and the artist himself.

Nampo-dong, often likened to Seoul’s Myeong-dong or Insa-dong, serves as a symbolic core of Busan. Its influence extends beyond its borders, merging with nearby neighborhoods like Gwangbok-dong, Jungang-dong, Changseon-dong, and Donggwang-dong, creating a seamless urban network. Historically, Nampo-dong has been a significant hub, especially during the Japanese colonial era and the Korean War, when it became the administrative, economic, and cultural center of Busan. The post-war influx of refugees transformed areas like Gukje Market into bustling centers of commerce and survival.


1993 Nampodong, Moon Jin Woo, Photography, Courtesy of the SPACE22

Yet, even in the chaos of war, Nampo-dong fostered a vibrant cultural scene. Refugee artists gravitated to its streets, igniting a wave of creative energy that defined Busan’s post-war artistic identity. Cafés, serving as informal salons and studios, became gathering spots for writers, painters, and thinkers. The iconic café Mildawon, immortalized in Kim Dong-ri’s novel The Mildawon Era, was a cornerstone of this cultural renaissance.

The artistic spirit of Nampo-dong evolved through the decades. By the 1980s, the area embraced what locals call the “Yangsan Park era,” where teahouses, traditional taverns, music lounges, and galleries defined the urban experience. In an era where formal exhibition spaces were rare, cafés doubled as art venues, hosting numerous exhibitions—including Moon Jin Woo’s graduation show. Simultaneously, Nampo-dong became synonymous with cinema, housing many of Busan’s iconic theaters and serving as the birthplace of the now internationally acclaimed Busan International Film Festival (BIFF).

For Moon Jin Woo, Nampo-dong was not just a subject but a personal haven. During his university years, the district became his playground, a place of friendships, first dates, and youthful adventures. He recalls moments of laughter in small teahouses, nights spent in beer halls, and formative experiences that shaped both his personal and artistic life. The now-vanished Mihwadang Department Store, alleys behind it like the Gogalbi Alley, and what is now BIFF Square were all backdrops to his youth.


1985 Nampodong 03, Moon Jin Woo, Photography, Courtesy of the SPACE22

After university, Moon’s direct ties to Nampo-dong waned, but the district’s magnetic pull persisted. He often visited the studio of a fellow artist, now internationally recognized and known simply as K, whose workspace near Gwangbok-dong became a creative sanctuary. It was during these years that Moon’s photography shifted focus—from rural landscapes to urban streetscapes—turning his lens toward the people, shopfronts, and cultural quirks of Busan.

His early urban explorations culminated in his first solo exhibition, The Era of Insensibility (1993), followed by Mannequin (1996). Both works reflected Moon’s contemplation of materialism’s dominance over the human spirit, a theme from his observations of Korea’s rapid economic transformation. Central to these reflections was Nampo-dong, a space that, for Moon, represented both the heart of Busan and the complex interplay between tradition and modernization.


1985 Nampodong 01, Moon Jin Woo, Photography, Courtesy of the SPACE22

Nampo-dong Blues, the namesake of his current exhibition, marked a pivotal moment in Moon’s career, anchoring his long-standing commitment to documenting Busan’s urban shifts. Today, his work focuses on recording the city’s evolving landscapes, capturing the tension between permanence and change.

Through Nampo-dong Blues, Moon Jin Woo invites viewers into a dialogue about memory, place, and identity. His photographs are not merely records of architectural shifts or bustling markets; they are meditations on how cities hold collective memories, even as they reshape themselves. For Moon, Nampo-dong remains more than a district—it is a living, breathing archive of Busan’s soul.


Sayart / Maria Kim, sayart2022@gmail.com

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